Prescription, Retinol & Retinyl Propionate: Your Simple Guide to Retinoids

Vitamin A is a skincare powerhouse, but it comes in several forms—and not all of them behave the same way. Understanding both their strength and how your skin converts them can help you (or your clients) get great results without unnecessary irritation.

Prescription Retinoids

When you grab a tube of Retin-A (tretinoin) or Differin (adapalene), you’re using the most potent version of vitamin A—already in the active retinoic-acid form, so no conversion is needed. These formulas deliver fast cell turnover, smoothing texture and fading fine lines. The trade-off? Many people hit a “retinization” phase—redness, dryness, peeling. And if you’re acne-prone, pay close attention to the base cream: some contain ingredients like isopopyl myristate that can clog pores.

Over-the-Counter Retinol

Pure retinol is a step down in strength—it requires two enzymatic conversions in your skin before it becomes active retinoic acid:

1. Retinol → Retinaldehyde

2. Retinaldehyde → Retinoic Acid

Because of those extra steps, it’s gentler than prescription strength and a solid middle ground once basic tolerance is built. These can still result in flaking if they push frequency too fast but the level of irritation will be less uncomfortable. You will also need to check ingredients here too to ensure they aren’t formulated with pore clogging ingredients.

Retinyl Esters (Retinyl Propionate)

Here’s the gentlest retinoid: retinyl propionate must go through three stages before it’s active:

1. Retinyl Propionate → Retinol

2. Retinol → Retinaldehyde

3. Retinaldehyde → Retinoic Acid

That extra buffer step slows the release of retinoic acid even further, which means virtually no downtime. Clients report smoother skin and fewer breakouts without the drama of initial flaking or redness.

Why Retinyl Propionate Wins

In my experience, the key to lasting results is consistency. If a product is too harsh, people stop using it. Retinyl propionate strikes that sweet spot: it’s effective enough to support collagen and even tone, yet gentle enough to keep clients on track—night after night. Whether you’re targeting acne, fine lines, or overall glow, it adapts to almost every skin type.

Ready to introduce retinyl propionate into your routine—or need help choosing the right retinoid for your skin? 👉 Book a virtual consult and let’s create a plan that feels good from the very first application.